The Navajo is one of the largest Native American Tribes in the United States and located on more than 27,000 square miles of land across Arizona, New Mexico and Utah. Jewelry has become one of the most sacred parts of the modern Navajo culture.
Origin of Navajo Jewelry
Historically the Navajo are believed to have first learned metal working from the Spanish and they combine methods from this early influence with modern techniques, while some others believe that Navajo Indians developed silversmithing skills from their Mexican neighbors around the mid-19th century. After the Navajo people were forced from their land by the U.S. government, they began developing the skill and trade. There are also some Navajo believed that they developed the method themselves or from neighboring tribes.
The Navajo originally made their jewelry for themselves, but after the railroads appeared in the late 19th century, they began making their jewelry to sell to American settlers who came through trading posts of the West.
Navajo Jewelry Designs
The early Navajo jewelers took inspiration from the Spaniards. The Spaniards were heavily adorned with silver pendants such as the naja, a crescent shaped pendant. The Navajo adopted similar accessories which are still used today. The well known squash blossom and other iconic designs are influenced heavily by Mexican art and jewelry traditions. Yet, the Navajo are still crafting original jewelry that reflects both the history and heritage of their people.
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Various original designs in Navajo Art have been displayed by talented artists over the years. Some of the earliest Navajo jewelry was made of metals, mainly silver, without stones of any sort. Conch style belts, flasks, necklaces and bracelets were some of the tribe’s main focus. Designs were done by filing and hammering notches in particular patterns into the metal. Slowly these Navajo designs began incorporating different types of stones and shells into the silver. One of the details enthusiasts pay attention to when it comes to Navajo jewelry is the breath taking turquoise displays. Turquoise is considered to be a sacred stone that protects the wearer from harm. Turquoise quickly became a favored centerpiece by the Navajo silversmiths and many different jewelry designs using this stone evolved. Today Artists use a variety of modern tools to create their customs styles of silver etched patterns and stone mounting designs.
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Navajo Jewelry is now well-known for its distinctive bold design, and use of silver inlaid with large, bright gems. Other natural stones are also used, including coral and spiny oyster shell. Silver was and still is plentiful in the Southwest, and precious gems can easily be found. Turquoise is a very popular gem used in Navajo jewelry, and this bold blue jewel is native to the Southwestern United States where the Navajo lived. This is the reason that Navajo Jewelry is characterized by large silver pieces and gems, unlike other Native American jewelry, which uses small beads to create patterns. It is for this reason that Navajo jewelry can sometimes be more costly than other forms of Native American Jewelry, but the combination of fine silver and gems and the expert craftsmanship make good quality Navajo jewelry an instant heirloom.
by Xiao Xiao @ InteractChina.com
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The filigree work is typically hand-fashioned with tweezers using silver wires which are shaped into flowers, butterflies and other subjects. At approximately 1700 degrees F, the wire structure is then carefully fired in a kiln where they are fused together with silver dust. This first process provides the framework for the piece. Fine enamel powder is then blended and packed into the frame, and briefly fired in the kiln again several times at 1500 degrees F. During this second firing, the enamel fuses into a durable glasslike finish. 
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